Exuma, Bahamas Travel Guide: Escape to Exuma

Welcome to the captivating paradise of Exuma, where turquoise waters meet powdery white sands, and adventure beckons at every turn. From boating to swimming with sharks, my Exuma, Bahamas travel guide will take you on a journey through this enchanting Bahamian gem, helping you uncover its hidden treasures and plan an exciting vacation too!

Discovering Exuma, Bahamas

Often, the easiest way to discover unique, off-the-beaten-path destinations and excursions is through the recommendations of others, and that is how we found Exuma. While we had heard of Exuma, our conversation with local paddle board shop owner Kenny in St. John, USVI, is what sparked our interest. He spoke of the remoteness of the Exuma islands, and we were ready to pack our bags.

Being the slightly obsessive travel planner that I am, I expected Exuma to be remote, but just how remote (with some dirt roads and all)- was still a bit of a surprise. But wow, what a trip!  

The Arrival

Exuma International Airport (GGT), conveniently located on Great Exuma, is the main entry point to Exuma. By far, the smallest International Airport I’ve ever been to. Major airlines offer flights from various cities, making Exuma accessible to travelers worldwide. Once you arrive, you’ll be immersed in the island’s charm and warmth.

Since we live outside of Atlanta, we are fortunate that we can enjoy direct flights on Delta all around the world. Exuma is no exception. A short two-and-a-half-hour flight later, we had arrived. Since the airport is tiny, the arrival experience is short and sweet. We walked straight from the airport to the car rental across the street and were off on our island adventures.

Our First Stop

Our first stop in Exuma was a grocery store to pick up a few items before heading to our vacation rental on Great Exuma. It’s important to know that supplies are limited on the island- including groceries- and higher prices come with limited supplies. So plan accordingly. We packed a few dry goods, including coffee, cereal, snacks, etc., and then stopped by the store to pick up a few more provisions.  

Where to Stay

Exuma offers various accommodation options to suit every preference, from luxury resorts to charming boutique hotels. The Grand Isle Resort and Spa provides lavish suites and villas overlooking turquoise waters for those seeking ultimate luxury. If you’re after a more intimate experience, consider the Peace and Plenty resort, located across the harbor on Stocking Island. If you prefer a vacation rental, there are cozy guesthouses and vacation rentals throughout the island.

Our Accommodations

Since this was a family trip, we chose to go with a vacation rental, as we often do. With two adult kids, we appreciate the space that a home provides. We stayed in a lovely oceanfront VRBO rental on the west side of Exuma with views of the Bonefish flats. The house was charming, and our hosts were incredibly gracious. However, now that we know the island a bit better, I believe we will stay closer to town next time, perhaps in the February Point neighborhood, or go the opposite route and venture south to stay on Tropic of Cancer Beach.

Exuma Islands Activities

When it comes to activities, we did everything. We started our vacation with a relaxing beach day at Tropic of Cancer Beach in Little Exuma, followed by an early dinner at Santanna’s. I cannot say enough about Tropic of Cancer Beach. Tropic of Cancer Beach, with its soft white sands and vivid blue waters, offers a tranquil escape for beach lovers who want to escape the crowds. It was one of the most beautiful, postcard-perfect beaches I have ever seen.  

Explore by Boat

Exuma’s sandbars and shallow waters are a dream come true for water enthusiasts. For several days, we explored the various sandbars and beaches by boat. You can charter a boat with a captain or do what we did- rent a boat from Minns Water Sports and explore the cays and coves at your own pace. Discover hidden beaches, secret coves, and stunning landscapes as you glide through the calm waters.

Don’t be nervous. If you have operated a boat and feel comfortable at the helm, you should have no problems. They expressly forbid you to venture beyond the harbor’s calm waters and will provide a map and instructions for your adventures. We really enjoyed pulling our boat up onto sandbars and exploring. We discovered sand dollars and conch shells and even spotted a few nurse sharks. If this sounds overwhelming to you, never fear- charter a boat instead.

Island Hopping

One of our most memorable days was island hopping with AquaQuest Escapes. We packed so much adventures into a one-day tour. From swimming with the sharks to snorkeling Pablo Escobar’s sunken plane- it was a blast!

Swimming with nurse sharks at Compass Cay is a must for thrill-seekers and a highlight of AquaQuest Escapes tour! These gentle creatures inhabit the marina, and visitors can swim alongside them in their natural habitat. Was I nervous to swim the sharks? Yes, I’m still traumatized from watching Jaws as a kid. However, I’m so glad I did!

For animal lovers, there is the world-famous Pig Beach. Pig Beach, on Big Major Cay, lets you swim with adorable wild pigs – a one-of-a-kind experience that promises both laughter and awe. Seeing the swimming pigs in person is incredibly unique, but be forewarned, they are much larger than you might imagine. And boy, do they love their food!

Finally, we had a few snorkel stops on our tour with AquaQuest. We snorkeled Pablo Escobar’s sunken plane and stopped at Thunderball Grotto. Made famous by the James Bond film “Thunderball,” this underwater cave system near Staniel Cay offers an unforgettable snorkeling experience. Swim through crystal-clear waters surrounded by colorful fish and intricate rock formations, making you feel like you’re in a magical world.

Where to Eat

Dining on Great Exuma can be tricky. At least, that was our experience. Some restaurants are closed on certain days of the week, while others would close earlier than expected. It’s island time all the time on Great Exuma, so my recommendation- go with it!  

Beach Bars & More

For lunch, we found ourselves across the harbor at Chat N’ Chill on Stocking Island quite often. Fresh, made-to-order conch salad, burgers, fish n’ fries, and some of the best Goombay Smashes on the island. Chat ‘N’ Chill is a must-visit. This laid-back beach bar exudes a relaxing ambiance making it a great place to spend a few hours or an entire day. Savor the flavors of the Bahamas, sip on tropical cocktails, and mingle with other travelers. And remember to say hello to the friendly stingrays that often join the party! You can take your boat to Chat ‘N’ Chill or hop on the water taxi in St. George for a ride over to this must-visit beach bar. 

If you’re on Little Exuma, then be sure to check out Santanna’s or Tropic Breeze for lunch or an early dinner. Both are beachside, offering a great place to grab a bite to eat, sip on a Bahamian cocktail, and soak in the ocean views. We enjoyed a drinks and food after a day at Tropic of Cancer Beach. And DO NOT leave Santanna’s without first stopping by Mom’s Bakery next door. They have THE best rum cake!

Plan Ahead for Dinner

Dinner was a bit more challenging. Some restaurants were closed, and others were booked. Make reservations in advance, and as typical with island restaurants, you might need to call to make reservations- as most do not offer online reservations. Something I did not truly realize until this trip!

Some of our dinner favorites were Shirley’s Seafood, an authentic, welcoming restaurant, Rusty Anchor in February Point, and Blu on the Water. Blu on the Water was more upscale, offered the most unbelievable views, and while the service was slow (as in a three-hour meal), it was a wonderful place to enjoy a special dinner.

There are a number of restaurants north of St. George that we did not dine at, simply because our location on Great Exuma was a bit too far of a drive. You can find more about those on TripAdvisor, but regardless of where you’d like to eat- plan ahead.

Exuma Bahamas Travel Guide – Final Tips

• Plan in advance. As you plan your Exuma vacation, remember to make reservations for dining, activities, and boating well in advance of your trip. Plan, plan, and plan some more!
• Be flexible! With slower times of the season, some restaurants may close at random hours or just close for the day. We arrived in Exuma on a Monday and were surprised that only a few restaurants were open for dinner.
• Relax and enjoy! There is a reason for the saying, “you’re on island time”. Realize things may move more slowly, than perhaps what you’re accustomed to at home. And that’s okay- you are on island time, after all!

Escape to the Exuma Islands, a true off-the-beaten-path paradise.